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BEYOND THE LONELY PLANET

We are headed for Bolivia along a road that alternately follows the shores of Lake Titicaca and then heads up the hills into the altiplano.  As we pass yet another herd of sheep, one of them begins to...

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SLIDING FACE DOWN ON THE PAVEMENT

The Bolivian border is almost in sight.  As we drive through some road construction, we are suddenly jolted by a deafening sound.  To my ears it sounds like a gunshot. I think fast.  What do I do in...

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JUMP!

Loading the bikes on the busy streets of La Paz is proving to be quite a challenge.  There is barely room to move between the shuffling feet and every second pair of feet stops to watch or photograph...

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MEANWHILE, BACK IN BOLIVIA

After digging ourselves out of the sand, we continue our drive along the edge of the Solar de Coipasa, a remote salt desert sitting at over 3700 m and covering over 2200 km². In the middle of this...

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DRIVING THROUGH THE SKY

I wake in the morning to find a llama and a sheep waiting just outside the tent for me. They accompany me on my trip to the nearby outhouse and then patiently escort me back to the campsite. On our...

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The Free-Standing Jacket

Journal:  December 6, 2011    Uyuni, Bolivia As light begins to seep into our room from a courtyard window, I can make out my motorcycle jacket in the corner of the room – just standing there.  Yes,...

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New Look, New Stories

Over the last couple of months, the Smiles & Miles website has received a bit of a facelift in preparation for an upcoming surge of stories.  We’ve created a format that will allow us to continue...

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